Yağli Güreş

Here comes yet another culture lesson out of Turkey, and I think this one will definitely raise a few eyebrows (if not some other parts of the body).  The national sport of Turkey is called yağli güreş (pronounced pretty much the way it looks), and the words themselves simply mean “oil wrestling.”

The wrestlers, known as pehlivan (“hero” or “champion”), are stripped to the waist and barefoot, and wear hand-stitched breeches similar to German Lederhosen.  These are called kisbet, and are traditionally made of water buffalo hide or calf skin.  The wrestlers douse each other with olive oil and then (usually) go at it in a grassy field (expositions can also be held indoors, but a natural setting is preferred).  Matches originally had no set duration, but are now capped at either thirty or forty minutes dependent on the classification of the wrestlers.  Occasional time outs are allowed to wipe oil from the eyes, but it is not uncommon for the pehlivan to fight with eyes closed, in order to disallow an advantage to an opponent.

To win a match, opponents have to control one another by achieving an effective hold of the kisbet.  More often than not, this is done by putting the arm through the opponent’s breeches (!) – “Because,” wrestlers explain, “the oil slips … there is no place to catch hold, except down there.”  Since a wrestler cannot depend on friction to subdue his opponent and the limbs and body are thoroughly oiled, the most effective way of sidelining an opponent is by sliding an arm into the kisbet to latch hold of the wrinkles (or something else) formed in the leather.  A winner can also be decided if an opponent is able to lift his partner’s body by the head, or if an opponent’s back can be flattened against the ground, or if one opponent simply cries, “Uncle.”  Interesting factoid: if a man defeats an older opponent, he kisses the latter’s hand (a sign of respect in Turkey).

Oil wrestling festivals take place in northern Greece and western Thrace, and yağli güreş-styled wrestling is also becoming popular in the Netherlands and Japan as a deviation of Greco-Roman wrestling.  However, the annual Kırkpınar tournament near Edirne, Turkey has been held annually (usually in late June) since 1362 and is the oldest, continuously running sporting competition in the world.

Another disparity about Turkey – albeit an interesting one.  Most older Turks don’t embrace alternative lifestyles, yet it’s okay for men of all ages to oil each other up and go for broke.  (Hhrrmm.)  Still, sign me up for yağli güreş lessons.  I love wrestling and the idea of getting an oily exotic in leather pants in my backyard is an opportunity I would not want to pass up.