Abercrombie & Fitch

Abercrombie & Fitch is one of those stores that confuses me and I am the first to admit it.  While I appreciate the type of clothing they sell because it appeals to me on a consumer level, I don’t think it’s ever the type of establishment I would want to work in, or let my 16-year-old daughter work in.

And of course, that’s the draw to teenagers everywhere, isn’t it?  Always has been.  If your parents hate it, then it’s the place to go or the thing to try.

The chain has received its share of bad press, just like any other business, but all you can do is shake your head when you hear some of the commentary that comes out of the controversy.  They set themselves up for all negative publicity, but it doesn’t seem to impact their success or sales, because of their target market.

So what’s the draw?

It’s known primarily for its racy marketing photography by Bruce Weber, rendered to gray scale and featuring outdoor settings, usually with semi-nude males and females for an increased tone of sexuality.  To its credit (I think), Abercrombie casts only store employees for marketing campaigns, and casting directors travel to key regional stores in the United States and London to hold "casting calls" for employees aspiring to become the next "New Face".  The company promotes its casting sessions, models, and photo shoots online at www.abercrombie.com.  The website also provides a gallery of current photography.  Framed copies at stores sometimes name the model and store.

The Abercrombie & Fitch brand image is heavily promoted as an international near-luxury lifestyle concept, which it began cultivating an upscale image after the 2005 opening of its Fifth Avenue flagship store alongside Prada and other upscale retailers.  Having for years used high-grade materials in the construction of its merchandise and priced them at "near-luxury" levels, the trademark Casual Luxury was introduced as a fictional dictionary term with multiple definitions such as "the finest cashmere, pima cottons, and highest quality leather to create the ultimate in casual, body conscious clothing," and "implementing and/or incorporating time honored machinery ...to produce the most exclusive denim...."  This upscale image has allowed for the opening of stores in international high-end locations, where prices are usually at least double those at not-so-high-end locations.

CEO Mike Jeffries calls the company image a "movie" because of the "fantasy" that plays out in-store.  Even some of the clothing is given a "back story": "You buy into the emotional experience of a movie," Jeffries explains, "And that's what we're creating.  Here I am walking into a movie, and I say, 'What's going to be [at] the box office today?'"

But I think he’s the one living in a fantasy.  Abercrombie & Fitch may be popular but he’s sending the wrong message to kids and parents alike.  He was also quoted as saying, "That's why we hire good-looking people in our stores.  Because good-looking people attract other good-looking people, and we want to market to cool, good-looking people.  We don't market to anyone other than that.  In every school there are the cool and popular kids, and then there are the not-so-cool kids.  Candidly, we go after the cool kids.  We go after the attractive all-American kid with a great attitude and a lot of friends.  A lot of people don't belong [in our clothes], and they can't belong.  Are we exclusionary? Absolutely.” 

These quotes, which were the basis for a "youth, sex and casual superiority" headline, went largely unnoticed in 2006 when they were first spoken, until they resurfaced in May 2013 after former Jenny Craig weight-loss spokesperson Kirstie Alley brought them up in an Entertainment Tonight interview.  Prominent talk-show host Ellen DeGeneres also later spoke out against the company.

Jeffries issued an official statement on May 17, 2013, regarding the fallout saying, "I want to address some of my comments that have been circulating from a 2006 interview.  While I believe this 7-year-old, resurrected quote has been taken out of context, I sincerely regret that my choice of words was interpreted in a manner that has caused offense."  He also stated, "We are completely opposed to any discrimination, bullying, derogatory characterizations or other anti-social behavior based on race, gender, body type or other individual characteristics.”

Really?  Is that why you’ve been sued so many times?  (And, if anybody has actually seen a picture of Mike Jeffries, they’ll see he’s really a physically unattractive man.  Kinda makes sense, in a perverse sort of way, as to why he would only want the cool kids in his stores, because he wants to be one of those kids … still.)

So, how is someone supposed to approach a store?  Yeah, they sell cool clothes, but they only really want to see cool kids in the store.  They’ll sell clothes to anyone; I’m surprised their salespeople don’t tell customers, “I wouldn’t buy this if I were you.  You’ll still look fat/nerdy and continue to be unpopular.”  That’s why brands like this are deceptive – who wouldn’t want to scope out chiseled, shirtless guys and buy anything they show you?  You’ll buy, because the salesperson knows you want to be like him and can’t.

Disappointing, certainly.  And definitely a wrong message to send to kids everywhere, especially those who may have self-image issues.

So why am I including them as part of Under-who, Under-when, Underwear?  Because like it or not, this brand is out there, and for the time being, it’s out there to stay.  It may be your (or your kids’) favorite store, but like any fairy tale, there’s a serpent lurking in the grass.  Yeah, the clothes are cool, and yeah, I’d like to buy as many of them as I can.  And yeah, I’ll even admit that I like the catalogs and photography I see.  But is it real?  And does it represent everything the human form should stand for?  Just because you can be an Abercrombie model doesn’t mean you should.